Weather Forecast: 70% chance of rain.
Yes, 70% chance of rain! When I suggested last week that we take this Thursday's class period to work up and plant the Hoben Garden, the forecast was calling for a 0% chance of rain. Welcome to the world of farming--changing plans in response to the weather is just part of the game.
The forecast could still change a lot between now and Thursday, so we'll have to be flexible and see what happens. I'm still hoping the rain will hold off and we can work outdoors. If not, we'll take the opportunity to plan out the garden on paper (see Jean-Martin Fortier's video from the "Week 4 on the Farm" post for his version of planning on paper) and then make a scheduling plan for getting the work done once the sun comes out again.
Here's your assignment in preparation for Thursday's class: Each of you are to research a specific vegetable crop that we might want to plant in the garden either for your own use at the end of the quarter or for other K students to enjoy in the fall (or some of you over the summer, perhaps). Each person needs to pick a different crop, so read through the comments section before you post to see what crops have already been done. (The early birds will have the greatest choice of crops for this assignment.)
For the crop you choose, provide the following information:
Name of the crop (tomatoes, sunflowers, etc.)
Whether the crop can be direct seeded into the garden or if it should be started indoors and then later transplanted outside
When the crop should be planted and/or transplanted
Approximate number of days from planting to harvest (be sure to include whether these are days from direct seeding or days from transplanting). When could you expect your first harvest?
Depth at which to sow seed
Spacing between plants
How many plants you will need in order to get a harvest that everyone could share
One pest or disease that's a problem with this crop and an organic solution to that problem
One additional "fun fact" or piece of information about this crop that might help you grow it successfully
Post your answers to the above in the comments section. You will be our resident expert on your crop on Thursday, so be prepared to play that role. If everyone chooses a different crop, you will have experts on 14 different crops that you can choose from in planning your garden!
Name of the crop (tomatoes, sunflowers, etc.)
ReplyDeleteTomatoes
Whether the crop can be direct seeded into the garden or if it should be started indoors and then later transplanted outside
I think starting indoors and then transplanting outside is a better choice than planting from seeds. To grow a strong tomato plant, we need to bury two-thirds of the stem when planting.
However, it’s also possible to plant from seeds. If that’s the case, choose plump, rounded seeds of an indeterminate variety. If using seeds, plant the seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before setting outside.
When the crop should be planted and/or transplanted
Late spring to early summer (tomatoes need at least 6-8 hours of sun to bring our their best flavors)
Approximate number of days from planting to harvest (be sure to include whether these are days from direct seeding or days from transplanting). When could you expect your first harvest?
60-90 days. We can probably harvest tomatoes around graduation/ during summer.
Depth at which to sow seed
about 1/4 in
Spacing between plants
3 feet
How many plants you will need in order to get a harvest that everyone could share
1 to 4 plants per person.
One pest or disease that's a problem with this crop and an organic solution to that problem
Fungal diseases called early blight causes dark spots on lower leaves. There is another fungal disease called late bright, and it is more devastating than early bright--- kills plants quickly.
The only way to control the disease is to spray the leaves with fungicide.
One additional "fun fact" or piece of information about this crop that might help you grow it successfully
To prevent the plants from getting disease, cover bare soil with mulch (soil and water should not touch leaves)
Sources:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/many-tomato-plants-feed-family-4-63093.html
http://www.reimerseeds.com/Seed-Planting/Tomato-Seeds/Tomato-Germination.aspx
https://bonnieplants.com/growing/growing-tomatoes/
Name of the crop: Helianthus Annuus (sunflowers). FL3279 Sunseed variety.
ReplyDeleteDirect seeded or transplant: While sunflowers can be started indoors, they are typically strong enough to withstand direct seeding in a garden once all spring frost has past.
When the crop should be planted and/or transplanted: Once the soil temp has reached 55 to 60 degrees F, sunflowers can be safely planted outdoors. Usually April-May.
Approximate number of days from planting to harvest (be sure to include whether these are days from direct seeding or days from transplanting). When could you expect your first harvest?: From direct seeding, seeds take 7 to 12 days to germinate and emerge from the soil. After 10 to 12 weeks, blooms will be fully mature and ready for harvest.
Depth at which to sow seed: 1/2-1 inch deep
Spacing between plants: 4-6 inches apart
How many plants you will need in order to get a harvest that everyone could share: Depending on whether folks would like to eat the seeds or primarily put the fresh cut flowers in vases, each person would probably want several flowers to take home. Assuming each plant produces 2-3 blooms, we will want to plant about 30 plants total.
Pest or disease and an organic solution:
Cutworms and weevils tend to plague sunflowers in the spring. Birds also tend to pick at the seeds. To prevent this, bird netting or flash tape can keep the birds at bay.
Fun Fact: Cutting a mature central flower head will promote side-shoot flower production on the plant allowing each plant to produce multiple large blooms.
Source: Territorial Seed Company Spring 2015 catalog, p. 135
Name of the crop: Eruca sativa/Arugula (Organic Seed)
ReplyDeleteWhether the crop can be direct seeded into the garden or if it should be started indoors and then later transplanted outside: This arugula variety can be direct seeded from early spring to one month prior to the first fall frost.
When the crop should be planted and/or transplanted: Arugula can be planted every 2-3 weeks from early spring until one month prior to the first average frost date.
Approximate number of days from planting to harvest be sure to include whether these are days from direct seeding or days from transplanting). When could you expect your first harvest?: Baby arugula can be harvested twenty one days after direct seeding. We can expect to harvest the arugula at this maturity beginning Seventh Week if we plant this Thursday. Full size plants and the edible flowers they produce can be harvested after forty days. We can expect to harvest full size arugula at the beginning of Tenth Week if we plant on Thursday.
Depth at which to sow seed: 1/8 inch
Spacing between plants: 30 to 50 seeds can be planted per foot.
How many plants you will need in order to get a harvest that everyone could share: Arugula seems to consume a lot of space per ounce produced (500 ft./oz.). If we are alright with having small, but continual harvests we should only need a few square feet.
One pest or disease that's a problem with this crop and an organic solution to that problem: Flea beetles pose problems for arugula production, but can be controlled with floating row covers beginning on the day of sowing.
One additional "fun fact" or piece of information about this crop that might help you grow it successfully: Arugula can be harvested by cutting at the soil level or by cutting baby leaves from the plants. Clipping leaves does not require the whole plant to be harvested. Arugula is also sharper tasting when more mature.
Source: http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-6001-arugula.aspx
Name of the crop: Ocimum basilicum ( BASIL) /Genovese kind
ReplyDeleteCan be seeded directly into your garden or into a pot. I don't think we should plant this right away unless we are sure that spring has come.
Planted usually in early to mid summer. Also do well in containers.
Approximately 65-75 days until maturity. (The folks staying in the summer can benefit!)
For the first harvest we can expect about 3inch long leaves and high plants (24-30''). We can expect to harvest a few weeks after graduation. (If people are still around in the end of June we could all have a meal together!)
Depth: 1/4 of an inch and should be planted anywhere between 4-12 inches apart (found different lengths from different sources).
Depends how much we use but basil is always nice to have around for a variety of beverages and for its delicious flavor. It would be best to plant only one square foot because we can get a good amount of basil leaves from one plant. If people want to make pesto and are hoping to store it then we could double or triple that size.
One well known disease to this plant is downy mildew. We can detect this in our plants if we see a black fuzz underneath the leaves or yellowing of the leaves. An organic way to prevent this would be widening our spacing between the plant (might be limited behind hoben) or being careful with our watering intensity.
One additional "fun fact" is that even when the leaves are clipped they can grow a bit more if kept in a wet paper towel. If our space is limited we can harvest some basil and leave room for other leaves! Also helping us to avoid the mildew.
Source:http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-8241-italian-large-leaf.aspx
Name of the crop: Daucus carota/Carrots. Napoli F1 (Nantes-type). (2322 in High Mowing Seed Catalog)
ReplyDeleteWhether the crop can be direct seeded into the garden or if it should be started indoors and then later transplanted outside: Carrots should be direct seeded "as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring" (High Mowing 13).
When the crop should be planted and/or transplanted: Carrots can be planted every three weeks and harvested throughout the spring/summer.
Approximate number of days from planting to harvest (be sure to include whether these are days from direct seeding or days from transplanting). When could you expect your first harvest? 45 days for baby, 55 for full size, from direct sowing. If we plant this week, we can expect to harvest around June 5-15.
Depth at which to sow seed: 1/4-1/2"
Spacing between plants: Plant 30-45 seeds/foot to end up with a final plant spacing of 1-2"
How many plants you will need in order to get a harvest that everyone could share: For each of us to get a good handful of carrots, I think we'd want to plant enough to harvest at least 140 carrots (i.e. 140 plants).
One pest or disease that's a problem with this crop and an organic solution to that problem: Leaf blight is the most common of carrot diseases. Alternaria and Cercospora blight appear on leaves/stems and can stunt the growth of roots. Three ways to prevent blight are: to avoid overcrowding rows when planting, to "avoid applying excessive nitrogen" (Johnny's), and to water in the morning so the leaves have time to dry throughout the day.
One additional "fun fact" or piece of information about this crop that might help you grow it successfully: Carrots are hardy, growing well in sandy loam, and also thriving in raised beds.
Sources:
High Mowing Organic Seeds, 2015 Organic Seed Catalog, p. 13, p. 100
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/t-carrot-pests-diseases.aspx
Name: Spacemaster 80 cucumber
ReplyDeleteDirect sow in after any danger of frost has passed. Transplants can be started 3-4 weeks before last frost date.
60 days to maturity; expected harvest: fourth week of June
Depth at which to sow seed: 1/2-1"
Spacing between plants: 12-24" for slicing, and 8-12" for pickling
How many plants? 3-4
Pests/Disease: Powdery mildew
If you can avoid it, don't apply nitrogen fertilizers late in the season. This will limit the production of succulent tissue, which is the most susceptible to infection.
Avoid overhead watering.
Remove and destroy infected plants -- DO NOT compost them!
Allow for as much air circulation as you can.
Fun facts/Tips:
1. Cucumbers need long, warm, sunny days and mild nights in order to be productive.
2. Keep well-watered and fed throughout the growing season.
3. Mulches, including black plastic varieties, can be useful in conserving moisture, preventing the soil from becoming compacted and the fruit from rotting, and in minimizing the presence of weeds.
4. Harvest your Cucumbers depending on their use, and therefore their size. They can over mature (and become bitter) rather quickly since they develop so rapidly after pollination, so check your crop frequently in order to pick them at their peak quality.
5. Be careful not to trample the vines any more than necessary while harvesting, and cut the stems about ¼ inch above the fruit.
Sources:
http://www.ufseeds.com/Spacemaster-80-Cucumber-Seeds.item
http://parkseed.com/spacemaster-80-cucumber-seeds/p/05123-PK-P1/
Pisum sativum (sugar snap peas)
ReplyDeleteSeeding: Direct sow, ~3/4-1" deep in a 3ft band, do not thin. This should yield about 25 seedlings/ft. Install trellis at planting!
Earliest planting as soon as the ground becomes workable (early harvests are more abundant than later harvests).
Pests/Disease: Pea root rot. To avoid, ensure proper soil drainage, and rotate plot away from legumes for at least three years. Balance pH between 6.0-7.5 with wood ashes or ground limestone before planting. Mildew also pertinent disease: choose resistant varieties and cull affected plants.
Fun fact: Peas are a cool weather crop! They'll grow 6' tall, and earlier harvests will outfield late summer ones (good news for us!).
Beets (Possibly the Detroit Dark Red)
ReplyDeleteCan be direct seeded. Soak the seeds in warm water for a few hours before sowing them to increase the chances of germination
Plant in early spring (ASAP)
Flower second year of growth (would be available for future K students) Stop planting when the temperatures hit 75 degrees but then begin sowing seeds again about 8 weeks before the first expected fall frost for a delicious late-season harvest.
Plant them in garden soil that’s been worked to a depth of 8 to 10 inches and cleared of rocks. Sow beet seeds to a depth of ½ to 1 inch and space rows 12 to 18 inches apart
It is multigerm (usually) resulting in multiple plants which gives us more food but requires thinning.
To protect beet foliage from leaf miners, flea beetles, leafhoppers, and other potential troublemakers, cover the newly planted rows with floating row cover and leave it in place until harvest.
Fun fact: Beets are high in immune-boosting vitamin C, fiber, and essential minerals like potassium (essential for healthy nerve and muscle function) and manganese (which is good for your bones, liver, kidneys, and pancreas).Beets also contain the B vitamin folate, which helps reduce the risk of birth defects.
Name: Tiara(F1) Cabbage Seed
ReplyDeleteIf we want the crop by June we would have to sow 2 seeds per cell in plug flats, 3-4 seeds/in. The seedlings would be ready to transplant in 4-6 weeks. They would need to be transplanted outdoors 12-18" apart in rows 18-36" apart in outdoor beds 1/4" deep. They should transplanted when temperature is between 55°-75°F outdoors because Cabbage does best in those cooler growing temperatures. Therefore, we could plant them in April or in May. Approximate number of days from transplanting to harvest is 53. We would need to plant between 35-40 seeds in order to have enough for the class to share. A pest that is a problem for this crop is the cutworm. In organic method that works against cutworms is to cultivate soil 2-4 weeks before planting to work in cover crops and destroy weeds. Cabbage as well as related brassicas are “heavy feeders” which means they require fertile soils and need to be well watered.
Source: http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-9889-tiara.aspx
DeletePisum sativum var. saccharatum (SNOW PEAS, preferably dwarf sugar white snow peas)
ReplyDeleteSnow peas can be directly planted into the soil as long as the soil is above 45 degrees F and that soil is dry. One site says that if you put a rake in the soil and it comes out clean you are good to go! If soil sticks to the rake its too wet for snow peas.
Snow peas can be placed directly into the soil after the years last frost has past.
50 days (or so plus) after seeds are planted in the soil. This means those staying over the summer can benefit from them! (This is around 7 1/2 weeks from Thursday, if my math is right, so July).
Seeds should be sown 1in deep and 1in apart. There should be 18+ inches between rows.
I think 1 to 4 plants per person, keeping in mind that the dwarf sugar white snow peas are smaller, this also requires a fence for the plants to vine on.
Foot rot- caused by fungi of Pythium spp and Rhizoctonia. Many of the solutions come in forms of prevention, i.e. keeping the pH of the soil low, avoid over crowding of the plant, disinfect planting tools, and making sure the plant is receiving a good air flow.
Fun fact! In France snow peas are called “mange tout" because you eat the peas, pod and all!
Name of the crop: Vates Kalae
ReplyDeleteCan be either direct seeded or transplanted after 4-6 weeks of growth in a separate container.
Kale can be directly sowed when daytime soil temps reach 65-75 F, or they can be planted for transplant 4-6 weeks before the planting date. 75 F is optimal for germination, but it'll start to germinate at temperatures as low as 50 F.
Without transplant: 30 days baby, 55 full size.
With transplant: 6 weeks baby, 10-12 full size.
If we plant them now, we can expect the kale in about a month! If we start them and transplant them later, the baby kale can be harvested by 10th week (hopefully).
Depth at which to sow seed: 0.25-0.5 inches
Spacing between plants:
Full size: Initial- 2 in. Final- 8-10 in.
Baby: Initial- 60 seeds/foot in 2-4 in. bands. Final- 8-10 in.
Let's say we want to grow a 10x1 foot bed of kale. This involves 10,000 seeds; which is somewhere between 1 and 2 ounces of seeds.
Cabbage aphids have been known to nibble on a farmer's crop of kale. They can be combated by manual removal or by spraying robust plants with a jet of water. If the infestation is severe, they can be warded off using neem or canola oil.
Kale is particularly resilient to temperature fluctuations (when compared to broccoli or cabbage), making perfect for growing in Michigan!
Don't forget, National Kale Day is October 3!
http://nationalkaleday.org
Name of the crop: Napa Cabbage
ReplyDeleteStart cabbage seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost. Harden off plants over the course of a week. To prepare soil, till in aged manure or compost.
Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks before the last expected frost date.
Harvest when heads reach desired size and are firm, this will take around 70 days.
Sow seed ½ inch deep and plant 12 to 24 inches apart in rows, depending on size of head desired. The closer you plant, the smaller the heads.
Twelve sizable heads of cabbage should be enough to share.
Aphids can be a problem for cabbages, but ladybugs are an easy, organic solution.
Although cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower are closely related, and require similar nutrients, it's best not to plant them together. They are all heavy feeders, depleting the soil faster of required nutrients; plus, they will attract the same pests and diseases. For cabbage, also avoid proximity to strawberries and tomatoes, instead grow near beans and cucumbers.
ReplyDeleteName of crop: "Spring" Garlic
Best direct "seeded" in spring. Seeding here is planting the cloves.
Harvest in the mid to late summer.
2 inches deep (5cm)
8 inch spacing (20cm)
30-40 plants should definitely be enough.
Aphids are a problem however they can be easily squished with fingers on the stem.
There are many rumors and myths around garlic helping fight parasites and bacterial infections although they have not been confirmed they are still backed by some pretty fascinating claims and evidence. An interesting thought.
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum)
ReplyDeleteBest results if directly seeded in well drained, moist soil. Preferably in soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8
Cilantro can be planted in the Spring or Fall. It also has a fast turn around. You can begin harvesting it in approximately 45 days.
Sow the seed ¼ inch (0.6 cm) deep and space 6-8 inches apart in rows 1 inch apart.
15 seeds or 1 plant per person. Problems with the crop can be aphids and whitefly, wilt or mildew. To help with the mildew or wilt issue, clean up all spent cilantro plants and get rid of any infected ones asap. Also don’t overwater or let them overcrowd and make sure they have enough moisture.
Fun fact: Cilantro’s strong scent can be considered a natural insect repellent.